Overview:

Monosodium glutamate, commonly known as MSG, has been a key seasoning in the culinary world, often associated with enhancing the flavor of various dishes. In Korea, where culinary traditions are rich and diverse, MSG has played a significant role. However, misconceptions and jokes about its nature persist. Let's delve into the science behind MSG, its use, and the myths surrounding it.

Conclusion: Monosodium glutamate, often surrounded by myths and jokes, is a valuable seasoning in Korean cuisine. Understanding its chemical properties, taste enhancement capabilities, and health considerations helps dispel misconceptions. Moderation in usage ensures that MSG contributes positively to the culinary experience without compromising health. As the culinary world evolves, acknowledging the role of ingredients like MSG in enhancing flavors paves the way for more informed and enjoyable dining experiences.

In 1907, Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda (池田菊苗, 1864-1936) pioneered the study of kelp broth flavor and successfully initiated mass production of monosodium glutamate (MSG). The initial production method involved extracting kelp through acid decomposition. Subsequently, the manufacturing process evolved to include acid decomposition of wheat flour or soybeans. The by-product of this method is the production of acid-hydrolyzed soy sauce. Today, MSG is derived from cane juice or molasses, showcasing the adaptability of its production process.

A modern biosynthesis method utilizes bacteria (Corynebacterium glutamicum) that naturally produce glutamic acid. This involves introducing the bacteria, allowing fermentation, and extracting the resulting microbial metabolic products. The process shares similarities with the production of vinegar, yogurt, or alcohol. Numerous variations of this biosynthesis method have been developed by domestic companies, enabling them to sidestep patent disputes by devising unique manufacturing techniques.

MSG, while classified as a chemical seasoning, differs from chemically synthesized sweeteners like saccharin and aspartame. MSG molecules are not artificially modified; rather, they are extracted, purified, and concentrated from microorganisms, animals, or plants. Analogous to refined salt or sugar, MSG undergoes a refining and concentration process in a factory. Thus, it is considered a chemical seasoning not because it is chemically synthesized, but because its production was meticulously researched through chemistry.

To clarify, MSG is not synthesized from materials like oil; its ingredients, such as sugar cane or sugar beets, are natural. The extraction process involves commonplace procedures, such as extracting sugar from juice, fermenting the remaining molasses liquid, and subsequent refinement. This clarification led to the reclassification of MSG from a chemical food additive (chemical seasoning) to a food additive in 2014.

Historically, MSG was often labeled as a chemical seasoning due to the marketing strategy employed by Ajinomoto, the first MSG product. The term gained traction through NHK, a public broadcaster, which frequently referred to it as 'chemical seasoning' in cooking programs to adhere to advertising restrictions. In a cultural context where chemistry was associated with innovation, the term was embraced without objection. However, as environmental concerns grew, the negative connotation of the word 'chemistry' emerged, leading to the abandonment of the term 'chemical seasoning' in the 1980s. Presently, even Japanese media outlets like NHK use the expression 'umami seasoning' (うま味調味料).

Leveraging the natural essence of biosynthesis, Miwon's advertisements in the 1980s and 1990s portrayed sugar cane farms, emphasizing a "Taste found in nature." The term "fermented seasoning" was also prominently displayed on their packaging. While an alternative method involves synthesizing MSG from petroleum using acrylonitrile, a raw material for acrylic, it is not commercially viable due to significantly higher costs and the production of flammable gas. This underscores the economic and environmental advantages of utilizing natural sources, like sugarcane, over petroleum.

In Korea, the widely recognized term for this popular seasoning is "miwon." The first product introduced in Japan, known as Ajinomoto (Taste and tasteあじのもと), had its name directly replicated in Korea. This was a period when Korea, Japan, Taiwan, China, and North Korea enjoyed friendly relations, and the awareness of trademark rights was relatively low.

The Korean production of miwon was initiated by Miwon Co., Ltd., which later became a part of the Daesang Group. Subsequently, the company underwent a name change to Daesang Miwon Co., Ltd. In China, the term used for this seasoning is Tastewèijīng, with slight variations due to linguistic differences.

Ajinomoto, the originator of Miwon, ventured into Joseon during the Japanese colonial period. Initially, it faced challenges as rumors circulated that it was expensive and made from snake powder. However, in the 1920s and 1930s, localization efforts were made, including newspaper advertisements and street promotional events. The company gained immense popularity by supplying MSG to various restaurants, including noodle establishments, Chinese restaurants, and soup kitchens. Despite active operations until the mid-1930s, production declined due to wartime food control after the Sino-Japanese War, leading to the closure of the Joseon office in 1943. Following liberation, the first product introduced was 'Bono Corn Soup,' developed in 1955 by a Miwon employee with prior experience at Ajinomoto. Today, it is marketed under the name ‘Ajinomoto Plus.’ However, historical records indicate that Ajinomoto indirectly entered the Korean market through a technical partnership with CheilJedang in the 1960s.

Ajinomoto has expanded its presence globally, with offices around the world. Acquiring MSG abroad does not necessitate airlifting from Korea; instead, it is readily available in most grocery stores. Similar to Miwon's association with chemical seasoning in Korea, Ajinomoto has become synonymous with this type of seasoning in numerous countries. Interestingly, some imported food stores in Korea even carry Ajinomoto produced by local corporations in Southeast Asia, such as Thailand.

During the Japanese colonial period, Ajinomoto had a profound impact on the Korean culinary landscape. The seasoning, recognized for enhancing umami, gained immense popularity in Korea, nearly matching its sales in Japan. In Joseon, where soups were abundant, Ajinomoto's umami-boosting properties created a culinary sensation. The Joseon branch manager held a prestigious position, considered almost as important as the president of the head office.

Notably, MSG's popularity in Korea began to rise around cold noodle restaurants in Pyongyang during the 1930s. The demand was so substantial that the Ajinomoto headquarters directly operated a cold noodle restaurant. The distinct flavor of "real Pyeongyang Naengmyeon" remembered by older individuals from the Japanese colonial period might well be attributed to the taste of MSG.

In the mid-1930s, during the Japanese colonial period, the daily soap operas of the Joseon Broadcasting Association's Gyeongseong Broadcasting Station (JODK) radio were immensely popular. Ajinomoto became a sponsor during this time, and it is said that the soap opera voice actors strategically ordered cold noodles from Hanilkwan in Jongno and consumed them during live broadcasts for Ajinomoto product placement. This fascinating episode is vividly depicted in the movie 'Radio Days,' providing a glimpse into the early days of broadcasting and the culinary influence of MSG in Korean culture.

Sugarcane, often an overlooked source of my existence, flourishes in wholesome soil, basking in sunlight, and inhaling the rejuvenating breeze. My rich and savory taste, derived from a meticulous 40-hour fermentation process, is a testament to the natural origins and careful craftsmanship involved.

While changing established perceptions might not be a swift endeavor, I hold steadfast to the belief that genuine dedication to taste and well-being will gradually dispel any misconceptions. The day is approaching when I can proudly showcase my culinary prowess across a myriad of tables.

In conclusion, Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) stands as a seasoning with a proven track record of safety. Extensive research has consistently affirmed its harmlessness to the human body, solidifying its safety profile, which surpasses that of alternative artificial seasonings often added to foods claiming to be 'MSG-free.'

Regrettably, in Korea, sensationalized television reports, spearheaded by figures like Lee Young-don, coupled with the use of fear-inducing terms such as 'chemical seasoning,' and the impassioned reactions from health-conscious moms aligned with pseudo-scientific well-being theories prevalent on platforms like Mom Cafe, have contributed to a public incitement. Lingering vague anxieties have perpetuated the misperception that MSG is a potentially harmful seasoning. It is crucial to clarify that any potential harm is linked more to an excessive intake of sodium, primarily driven by dietary habits favoring salty foods, rather than inherent issues with MSG itself. It is imperative to disentangle the facts from the misconceptions and foster a more informed and nuanced understanding of MSG's role in our culinary experiences.

In the early months of 1968, reports emanated from the United States describing symptoms such as a burning sensation at the back of the head, discomfort, muscle cramps, and nausea, occurring temporarily 10 to 20 minutes after consuming a substantial amount of monosodium L-glutamate. These reports gained global attention, particularly linking the symptoms to Chinese restaurants, leading to the coining of the term "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome" (CRS), also known as Kwok's disease.

Dr. Kwok Ho-man, an Asian American, played a prominent role in the narrative when he published an article in April 1968, detailing side effects he believed were induced by salt after consuming Shandong cuisine. However, it came to light in 2018 that Dr. Kwok Ho-man was a fictional character, with Dr. Howard Steele, a white individual, revealing that the persona was created as part of a $10 bet with a friend to test whether a reputable medical journal would publish an unverified article.

It's important to note that various contemporary foods, including popular items like Campbell's soup and Italian dishes featuring tomato sauce, also contain substantial amounts of MSG. Despite this, syndromes analogous to CRS, such as "Campbell Syndrome" or "Cheetos Syndrome," did not emerge. The primary driver of the controversy surrounding Chinese food during that period was rooted in racial prejudice against Asians.

As anecdotal testimonies continued, pseudoscientific studies about MSG proliferated. For instance, claims of organ failure in rats were made when MSG was subcutaneously injected, a method far removed from typical human ingestion. Analogous claims were made against distilled water, illustrating the distortion and misuse of information by those asserting MSG's danger.

An experiment suggesting that MSG caused blindness in rats similarly lacked scientific rigor. It involved injecting a large quantity directly into the rats' eyes with a syringe, an abnormal and extreme method. Such studies were later discredited, prompting organizations like the U.S. FDA and the UN's Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) to establish acceptable daily intake levels for MSG, even incorporating it into baby food. It was initially regulated for individuals with specific health conditions like high blood pressure and allergies.

However, subsequent thorough investigations dissociated CRS from MSG, leading to the elimination of daily intake restrictions in most countries. The Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, echoing this sentiment, has consistently asserted the harmlessness of MSG through various promotional materials. The historical misunderstanding has spurred a more accurate understanding of MSG, emphasizing its safety in contemporary culinary contexts.

During the 1988 Seoul Olympics, Korean environmental groups seized an opportunity to propagate the term "Korean restaurant syndrome." Driven by commercial interests related to vegetarianism and health food, this unfounded claim overlooked the presence of MSG in natural sources like kelp and shiitake mushrooms. Rather than a scientifically grounded concern, it was a pseudoscience manipulated by certain groups, particularly white Americans, fostering discrimination against Asians. Ironically, in contemporary vegan communities, MSG, akin to Miwon, is recognized as a certified vegan food.

In 1993, Lucky (now LG Household & Health Care) introduced MSG as a chemical synthetic product while launching Matgreen to compete with Miwon and Dasida. However, this led to an order from the Ministry of Health and Welfare to cease advertising, generating a public misconception that MSG was a petrochemical industry derivative. This prejudice fueled the removal of MSG from most ramen sold in Korea, causing prices to surge. Despite attempts by some companies to capitalize on MSG-free marketing, the use of other natural additives, often with unverified impurities, contributed to rising prices and diminished taste.

Even though MSG, recognized as safe by the FDA, could be used, the fear associated with it led to the adoption of alternative seasonings, regulated by the FDA, in many exported ramen products. In 2010, Lotte faced controversy over PB ramen containing MSG, despite subsequent reassurances from the Food and Drug Administration regarding MSG's harmlessness. Consumer distrust persisted, highlighting the persistence of misconceptions surrounding MSG's safety, even in the face of comprehensive research and experimental evidence.

In March 2010, the Korea Food and Drug Administration declared MSG safe for lifelong consumption. Despite this authoritative statement, domestic media and well-being advocates continued to harbor reservations towards MSG. These skeptics, unwilling to accept the conclusions of numerous international governments and research institutes, perpetuated a parrot-like response claiming disbelief.

Critics dismissed the verifications of MSG's safety, arguing that potential harm might be discovered in the future. This skepticism persisted despite widespread acceptance in numerous countries that MSG is safe for consumption. Misinformed individuals continued to express unwarranted concerns about the perceived harmful effects of MSG, contributing to a persistent misunderstanding.

The unwarranted stigma around MSG reached comical heights when individuals proudly declared "NO MSG" while using seasonings containing MSG, such as red pepper paste, soybean paste, soy sauce, fish sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Such misunderstandings were evident in restaurant settings, where chefs proclaimed a lack of seasoning while unknowingly using chicken stock, beef bone powder, and flavored salt containing MSG in their dishes.

Processed food companies initially tried to educate the public about the harmlessness of MSG, but persistent disbelief prompted a shift in strategy. Companies began marketing products containing alternative, unverified, and often cheaper seasonings as MSG-free at higher prices, taking advantage of confirmation bias among customers, leading to self-destructive choices.

MSG, short for Mono + Sodium + Glutamate, indicates one sodium ion attached to glutamic acid. Glutamic acid, constituting one of the 20 amino acids forming proteins, boasts a higher presence in proteins than other amino acids like tryptophan. Additionally, it serves as a vital neurotransmitter facilitating information transmission between synapses in the nervous system. The human body requires glutamic acid for survival, and as such, it is not inherently harmful. The difference between glutamic acid and MSG lies in the presence of sodium ions in MSG, enhancing its solubility. While excessive consumption of either glutamic acid or MSG is potentially dangerous, the LD50 (lethal dose 50) of MSG is higher than that of salt, implying lower toxicity.

Most daily foods contain nutrients that can be harmful if consumed excessively. Labeling and criticizing MSG as 'toxic' lack justification. The effective amount of MSG as a seasoning is significantly lower than the toxic amount, and it is among the few seasonings proven as safe. In experiments with rats, the LD50 for MSG is higher than 12.961 g/kg when administered orally. In comparison, vitamin C has an LD50 of 12g/kg, and salt's LD50 is 3.75g/kg, indicating that MSG is relatively safer. Solid MSG is less dense than perceived, making it practically impossible to consume a lethal dose unintentionally.

The safety of MSG has been extensively researched over the years, and a joint committee of WHO experts concluded that there was virtually no need to set an acceptable daily intake for MSG. The lack of an ADI implies that MSG is not associated with specific health risks when consumed within reasonable limits. Despite the possibility of discovering hitherto unknown risk factors, MSG's long-proven safety suggests little chance of overturning these facts.

Concerns about MSG harming the body often lead to alternatives like 5'-ribonucleotide sodium or Disodium succinate, which may be worse due to the addition of ester-based artificial flavors and colors. Chemical seasonings are initially employed to compensate for the flavor loss in cheap ingredients, further emphasizing the relative safety of MSG.

Various news outlets, including KBS News, Naver Cast Chemistry Walk, and JTBC Newsroom, have reported on the harmlessness of MSG. Despite these efforts, public perception often remains entrenched in unfounded beliefs. The Ministry of Food and Drug Safety's plan to ban the use of the phrase "No MSG added" signifies the persistent misconceptions surrounding MSG.

A study from Tottori University in Japan suggested that dementia patients consuming MSG daily experienced improved memory, aligning with historical rumors about MSG benefiting memory. Consumer distrust of MSG has led some ramen manufacturers to replace MSG with salt or excessive spiciness, raising prices, increasing sodium content, and compromising taste. Lim Chang-jeong's 'Open the Door' MV touches on the debate over MSG, portraying a store reorganizing to eliminate MSG, reflecting both consumer skepticism and criticism of using MSG to mask low-quality ingredients.

In precise terms, Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) does not fall under the conventional category of commonly referenced chemical substances or chemical seasonings. When we speak of chemicals broadly, it includes commonplace substances like water and oxygen. However, when we specifically mention chemicals or chemical seasonings, we typically refer to artificially synthesized compounds that do not naturally occur. MSG, in contrast, is a substance inherent in the bodies of animals and plants. Consequently, MSG cannot be strictly classified as a chemical substance or chemical seasoning. If a categorization were necessary, it could aptly be termed as a 'bio seasoning.'

The persistent prevalence of rumors and misconceptions surrounding MSG can be attributed, in part, to its unfamiliar name. The term 'salt' may sound innocuous, but when articulated as 'sodium chloride' or 'sodium chloride,' it may evoke different perceptions. Similar to the apprehension caused by the technical term MSG, its name, especially when presented in English like 'monosodium glutamate' or 'sodium L-glutamate,' can instill an unsettling feeling.

Media outlets often deploy 'sodium' instead of 'salt' for a deliberate impact. This strategy is akin to the subtle use of 'saccharin' in place of 'sugar,' contributing to a distinct perception. Instances like those in Baek Jong-won's alley restaurant, where they claim to avoid MSG but use seasoned salt, chicken stock, and beef bone powder containing MSG, highlight the nomenclature's influence.

Drawing insights from advertising psychology, there is a well-established principle that the pronounceability of a food additive's name directly correlates with its memorability. A study from the University of Michigan suggests that the more challenging a name, the more likely it is perceived as harmful. Human thinking tends to follow a trajectory of easy pronunciation → familiarity → perceived safety. This cognitive pattern extends beyond safety concerns, evident in the persuasive impact of highly readable fonts and the ease with which memorable company names attract stock investors, as demonstrated by companies like Apple and Alphabet. These principles underscore the intricate relationship between nomenclature, perception, and societal beliefs.

While some individuals report experiencing headaches and stomachaches after consuming MSG, attributing these symptoms to an MSG allergy, there is currently no medical evidence supporting the notion that MSG causes allergies.

It's crucial to note that MSG is a naturally occurring substance found in various ingredients such as kelp and beef. If MSG were a common allergen, navigating modern diets would be exceptionally challenging. However, a closer examination of individuals claiming to have an MSG allergy reveals that many consume foods rich in MSG, including kelp, beef, fish, seaweed, mushrooms, and crab.

Equating an MSG allergy to an allergy to salt is a pertinent analogy. To determine if one truly has an allergy, seeking professional medical advice and undergoing a proper diagnosis is recommended. While it's unlikely to receive a diagnosis of an MSG allergy since the antigen is not registered, medical assessments can reveal alternative causes, such as allergies unrelated to MSG or underlying chronic conditions that might be overlooked. It's essential to approach such health concerns with a comprehensive understanding and professional medical guidance.

Irrespective of the debate over its harmful effects, there is a prevailing negative sentiment towards the extensive use of MSG in the restaurant industry. Critics argue that the indiscriminate use of MSG can be a cover-up for poor cooking skills or the utilization of subpar ingredients. While enhancing flavors is a fundamental aspect of culinary art, there are ethical concerns within the restaurant industry, which thrives on profitability through culinary expertise. The contention arises from the widespread practice of intentionally deceiving customers about the quality of food ingredients, with MSG purportedly at the center of this controversy.

Two primary claims surround the abuse of MSG in the culinary world. The first scenario involves incorporating MSG during the cooking process to compensate for substandard preparation or the use of inferior ingredients. Instances include presenting packaged meat alongside a simple noodle broth, falsely implying that considerable effort went into crafting the broth. Moreover, such practices often result in overcharging customers for dishes seemingly prepared with premium ingredients.

The second method of abuse occurs during the processing and distribution of food ingredients. In this case, flavor enhancers, including MSG, are added to counteract the diminished taste resulting from increased use of substitutes in an attempt to reduce costs. Common examples include pickled foods, oyster sauce, fish cake, and pickles. Notably, while larger food companies may handle such ingredients with care, smaller companies, especially those dealing with seafood, may resort to masking inferior quality with MSG.

Criticism, in this context, is directed more towards the deceptive practices surrounding MSG rather than the seasoning itself. Concerns arise from the tendency to either misuse MSG or to pretend not to use it. The argument asserts that such practices mislead customers and perpetuate the misconception that flavoring food is an easy task, ultimately undermining the credibility of the restaurant industry.

However, the major flaw in this critique lies in its potentially futile nature. Criticizing MSG for causing these issues might only lead to a reduction in its use without addressing the underlying problems. Historical instances reveal that attempts to market MSG-free products resulted not in the avoidance of seasoning altogether but in the incorporation of unverified seasonings, potentially more harmful than MSG. Rather than finding constructive solutions, baseless criticisms can exacerbate the situation.

Ultimately, the focus should not solely be on MSG; it is not the unique culprit. All seasonings, including MSG, share the common function of enhancing flavors. Overemphasis on MSG as the primary issue fails to address the fundamental problem – the deceptive use of seasonings to mask low-quality ingredients. To effect meaningful change, stakeholders should target misleading practices and demand transparency within the culinary industry rather than fixating on MSG as a singular problem.

Despite the widespread aversion to MSG among some individuals, it is interesting to note that most people are already accustomed to its use. This is evident in anecdotes like the 'Sikgaek' cartoon episode where a customer allergic to seasoning praises a dish with a hint of seasoning, highlighting the prevalent acceptance of MSG in modern diets. Such stories, frequently shared on internet forums, emphasize that people may unknowingly appreciate dishes enhanced by MSG.

Another amusing tale involves a husband dissatisfied with his wife's cooking until he discovers that the secret to his mother's flavorful dishes was simply adding a generous amount of MSG. While humorous, these stories underscore the ubiquity of MSG in enhancing culinary experiences.

Contrary to popular beliefs, the Korean Headache Society dismisses claims that MSG causes migraines, debunking a misconception held by some. Similarly, the notion that mixing MSG with cider induces peculiar reactions has no scientific basis, as proven in the movie 'Wet Dreams' and elsewhere. In reality, such combinations result in a tasteless concoction, challenging the myths surrounding MSG.

Surprisingly, sports drinks like Pocari Sweat also contain MSG, listed as 'Sodium L-glutamate (flavor enhancer)' on the ingredient label. This unexpected presence in diverse products highlights MSG's prevalence beyond its association with traditional seasonings.

In Korea, LG Household & Health Care's advertising campaign for 'Matgreen,' a seasoning promoted as MSG-free, played a crucial role in introducing MSG to the public. The humorous association with actor Moon Seong-geun led to jokes like 'Moon Seong-Geun puts MSG on,' reflecting the humorous side of MSG discussions.

Interestingly, MSG has found its way into language as a slang term for lies, exaggerations, and distortions, particularly in broadcasting contexts. This linguistic evolution underscores the varied perceptions and interpretations associated with MSG.

Anthony Bourdain, a renowned American food broadcaster, once provocatively linked Chinese Restaurant Syndrome (CRS) triggered by MSG to the broader issue of racism, adding a controversial layer to the MSG discourse.

In culinary practices, MSG often goes unnoticed when used in moderation. Experts in the restaurant industry, including Baek Jong-won, suggest that people, even those with sensitive taste buds, may struggle to discern the use of MSG when blended seamlessly with other seasonings.

Interestingly, Japan, akin to Korea, also grapples with a societal aversion to MSG. This shared sentiment arises from longstanding encouragement in various media forms, echoing Korea's experience. Notably, even in Daisuke Terasawa's 'Mr. Ajikko,' a renowned manga series, a chef using MSG outshines an opponent relying on high-quality kelp.

The efficiency of MSG over traditional ingredients, such as kelp, in extracting pure MSG ingredients is acknowledged. For single-person households, MSG emerges as a practical and cost-effective alternative, as highlighted by its use in Japanese soup dishes.

These intriguing facets collectively illustrate the multifaceted role of MSG, weaving through culinary traditions, popular beliefs, and linguistic nuances across cultures.